Day 11 - Acquapendente to Bolsena

Coffees: 2, Gelati: 2, Wine: 1/4 litre

Actual Distance Walked: 19.5km, Actual Time Taken: 5h 18m

Planned Distance: 20km, Planned Time: 6h

Didn't much enjoy today.  Navigation was easier than I expected (more on that in a moment) but my feet still hurt from yesterday's mammoth effort so it was something of a slog.  The reason I travelled a slightly shorter distance but still got to my destination, was that I was so pleased to be near the end I missed a step in my instructions once the lake and town of Bolsena came into view.  It didn't really matter in the end since I could see where I needed to go so I just followed roads until I got there.  I just ended up entering the town through suburbs from the west, rather than dropping down from the north through the old city. 

My hotel was right on the lake shore, which was lovely but meant it was a 500m walk up to the walls of the old town.  It doesn't sound like much but my feet still let me know that it was further than they liked to go.  All the same I still made them go so I could do some sightseeing.  

Bolsena seems very strange to me as it feels like it should be a seaside resort but there is no smell of sea air.  In keeping with the seaside resort theme I had dinner at a restaurant built out on a jetty over the water.  Everything about it screamed tourist trap but the view was worth it.  I dined unfashionably early (7:15pm) so I got to watch the sun setting over the lake.  I started with a caprese salad - supermarket tomatoes and fairly ordinary mozzarella but decent olive oil.  I then had gnocchi with ragu again.  This time the gnocchi was commercially made (!) but it was lighter than yesterday's and a more sensible serving size.  Main was lake perch done Etruscan style.  Given that this style means with onions, cherry tomatoes and parsley I'm  not sure an Etruscan would recognise it.  Still, this was good as the fish was obviously freshly caught.  The price was excessive for the quality but I didn't mind paying a bit extra for the view.

I skipped dessert as I'd two lots of gelati that day (making up for lost time).  The first was at the first place I stumbled across as I walked into town and was very ordinary (pistachio and strawberry).  The second was at a recommended place and was well worth the recommendation (pistachio and ricotta with cinnamon).  I wonder if it would be possible to convince the second lot to immigrate to Melbourne?

Got mistaken for a hunter again.  Memo to self, never carry your hiking pole over your shoulder.  Always use it as a pole, even when you don't need it, such as when you are walking on level tarmac.

Forgot to mention in yesterday's entry but the restaurant where I had dinner had a TV on showing a local game show.  The competitor was a balding, middle aged man.  A young, (very) well built blonde in skimpy clothes stood behind him (actually plastered up behind him) running her hands up and down his back and shoulders and across his head.  Meanwhile the host barked out rapid fire questions at the man.  Eat your heart out Eddie McGuire.  "Who Wants To Be A Millionaire" just isn't in their league.