Coffees: 1, Gelati: 0, Wine: 1/4 litre
Actual Distance Walked: 17km, Actual Time Taken: 5h 3m
Planned Distance: 17km, Planned Time: 5h 30m
Today went much better than yesterday. The feet felt ok when I set out and only started to be uncomfortable by the end. Navigation all went smoothly in spite of instructions like "initially it has very low tree cover but the path is there!". I would have taken less time but I got stuck in a rural traffic jam. A farmer chose to move her sheep from one paddock to another just as a I came around the corner. I could probably have gone through the flock but wasn't sure if it would spook them. I was sure it would spook the sheep dog and I've been having such a lovely dog free few days. That is, I've been barked at but everything has been securely behind a fence.
I got to walk on a piece of Roman road today and there will be more tomorrow. It was such a thrill to be walking down a road that was laid 2000 years ago and has been in use ever since and is still there! It was only a short section - about 50m. I was so excited to be able to walk on it I was tempted to walk up and down it a few times just because I could.
On my route out of Bolsena I also passed a water fountain that was part of the original aqueducts supplying the town with drinking water. Also still there but unfortunately also still in use. I had planned to photograph it (and fill up my water bottle) but a local farming couple were using it to wash out the giant buckets they use for collecting grapes.
Had dinner at one of the restaurants recommended in the route notes as they serve traditional food of the region. The notes also said they weren't open on a Tuesday but when I went past at 7:30pm the outside door was open and a light was on so I went in. I was the only person there but I guessed they had just opened. However, the only other people who came to eat there were a trio who were clearly friends rather than just customers as they just sat with the staff at the back chatting and watching TV. Very awkward.
Dinner was quite good, in spite of the awkwardness. I started with mixed crostini again. This time the toppings were tomato (very good), a paste made of grilled capsicum (also good) and one of mince with vinegar (too much vinegar). My primo was house made, fresh pappardelle with the house special sauce, which turned out to be a very spicy mince - very tasty. Main was oxtail stew with tomatoes, celery and carrot. Tasty but too salty for me.
Had dinner at one of the restaurants recommended in the route notes as they serve traditional food of the region. The notes also said they weren't open on a Tuesday but when I went past at 7:30pm the outside door was open and a light was on so I went in. I was the only person there but I guessed they had just opened. However, the only other people who came to eat there were a trio who were clearly friends rather than just customers as they just sat with the staff at the back chatting and watching TV. Very awkward.
Dinner was quite good, in spite of the awkwardness. I started with mixed crostini again. This time the toppings were tomato (very good), a paste made of grilled capsicum (also good) and one of mince with vinegar (too much vinegar). My primo was house made, fresh pappardelle with the house special sauce, which turned out to be a very spicy mince - very tasty. Main was oxtail stew with tomatoes, celery and carrot. Tasty but too salty for me.
For the next third of my trip I will be having half board at almost all places as they are so small. I am the only person doing this ATG walk. I hope I won't be the only guest at the hotels. Still, I love my kindle. I have over 200 books on it so I don't have to worry about running out of something to read.
Glad to hear that there are some other living beings en route with you even if most of them are sheep! And I've been scornful in the past of the local cafes which serve bruschetta as a starter - they really do that in Italy now.
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