Day 8 - Montalcino to Pescina

Coffees: 1, Gelati: 1, Wine: 1/2 bottle

Actual Distance Walked: 26km, Actual Time Taken: 8h 10m

Planned Distance: 27km, Planned Time: 8h

This day was (every so) slightly shorter than planned because I had to take to the road for a short portion of it, rather than following the "official" track weaving through vineyards and forest.  As I said, they take their wine very seriously here in this part of Italy.  Many of the local vineyards are ready to harvest their grapes and they have put up electric fences around their fields to prevent theft.  It also prevents hikers tramping through.

I was very grateful for the shortened distance, even if it was only by 1km as this was the hardest day by far.  Not only was it the longest day, but it is the day with the most climbs (1126m of ascent) and descents (834m worth).  I think it might be the hardest day on the entire trip.  It certainly is for this middle section.  There is one longer day, but that is mostly over level terrain.  There are no climbs like today.  In fact, tomorrow (bless its little cotton socks) is mostly downhill.

I'm glad this wasn't my first day hiking but rather I had the first section to get into shape.  With those 6 days plus regular stretching plus the (lavender scented!) balme di tigre I was able to get through today without any pain - I was just totally knackered by the end.  When I finally made it to my hotel I didn't even bother trying out my carefully planned Italian phrases for "I have a reservation" and "I would like to buy a packed lunch for tomorrow" (this village is tiny and has no shops), I just spoke English.  I'm a little disappointed about the last phrase as I'd spent a lot of time practicing it and won't need to use it again.

Just had a delicious, but deeply self-conscious meal.  As I said, this village is tiny.  I had dinner at the restaurant hotel.  I am the only guest at the hotel (all of 4 rooms) and I was the only diner.  I kept thinking I went down to dinner early, other people will show up, but they never did.  There was the chef in the kitchen along with 2 assistants plus the front of house man and me.  I can't believe they can be covering their costs. I normally don't bother bringing anything to read with me as I just people watch between courses but there was nobody to watch!

Dinner was delicious.  It was easily the best meal I've had (please come and dine here) but it was very upmarket and beautifully presented.  When you've walked the best part of 26km you want quantity as much as quality.  My primo was tortelloni (home made pasta this time) with fresh ricotta and spinach filling.  It was so light and tasty I wanted to lick the plate.  Main was deep fried chicken pieces (very moist on the inside and crunchy on the outside) with a quarter (!) of a boiled potato and a small onion souffle.  Dessert was two spoonfuls of the most intensely flavoured strawberry gelati I've ever had.  I washed this all down with half of bottle of Rosso di Montalcino (what Brunello devolves into if they don't bother with all the aging) followed by an espresso.  They also gave me a platter of house baked bread and I stuffed as much of it into myself as possible before they tidied it away.  

I'll be the only person at breakfast tomorrow.  What on earth should I ask for?