Day 17 - Penzance

Beer drunk: none, Distance walked: 20km, Time taken: 6h 41m (5h 33m walking)

Today turned out to be a very pleasant day for walking - cool, with a light breeze.  I'd been a bit nervous about today's walk as it was rated as more difficult than yesterday's even though it was much the same distance.  What a difference decent weather makes.

I had planned on getting an early night and a good sleep in this morning but fate had other plans.  There were 4 men staying at my B&B.  They are riding bicycles from Land's End to John O'Groats.  They spent a fair amount of time on the landing outside all our rooms the night before planning what time to get up and what to have for breakfast.  Then, this morning, one got up early and went around knocking on doors and waking up everyone (not just his mates).  I hope they all get punctures.

The walking was mainly easy.  Some rocky paths but not bogs and not too much mud.  There was one point when you walked/scrambled along a beach covered in boulders (none of that piddly pebble stuff).  Fortunately the tide was out.  It would have been a bit exciting at high tide, particularly with an onshore breeze.

I lunched at a teashop in Lamorna Cove.  This was partly because I wanted a lighter meal than yesterday but mainly, I have to confess, because the teashop was on the path and the pub a bit of a walk inland.  I'm getting lazy in my old age.

My B&B here in Penzance is one off a row of terrace houses, every second one of which is a B&B.  I wonder how they make a living out of season?

My room is delightful.  It is up on the 2nd floor, tucked in under the eaves.  They've done a good job fitting everything in, even tucking in a little ensuite bathroom.  My own bathroom with no excursions necessary.  The owner did confess to me that one room has a bath.  Mine just has a shower.  He didn't need to tell me that!

The male half of the owners turns out to be from Melbourne.  He grew up in Viewbank and went to the Boy's Grammar.  His father's family was from Strathmore and his mother's from Pascoe Vale so he is practically a neighbour.  He is also an Essendon supporter, but I promised not to hold that against him.

I got here a little before 4pm and everyone was out so I had to phone to fetch the owners back to let me in.  They said I got here earlier than expected.  One of the other B&B people said this, even though I turned up after 4pm.  My trip notes said anytime after 4pm was OK but it sounds as if at least some expect me to call ahead and let them know when I expect to arrive.  This strikes me as both impractical (how can I be sure how long it will take me to walk each section?  I've never done it before.) not to mention ruinously expensive.

I spent my afternoon at the laundromat.  When you can smell yourself you know you must reek.  After doing my laundry I went out for dinner.  I went to Harris's Restaurant as I was feeling pub-ed out.  After the usual dithering about whether they were willing to give a table to a solo dinner I was in.  I had the duck terrine with green tomato chutney to start.  It was delicious.  Very earthy flavour so lots of liver and not so much padding like cream or butter.  My only objection was the serving was huge.  I was then given a small scoop of a thyme sorbet to cleanse the palate.  Very silly but intensely flavoured.  Main was lamb noisettes with fennel puree and rosemary sauce, with green beans, mange toute peas and boiled potatoes on the side.  Again tasty and again a huge serving.  Mrs Harris does front of house and she warned me that the lamb would be pink.  I put on a shocked expression and said "Of course!". Petty revenge for the dithering about letting me in.  I had treacle tart with clotted cream for dessert.  Once again tasty but way too much.  It was about twice as deep as it needed to be.  I skipped coffee as they only do filtered coffee.  I appeared shocked by that too.  The total bill was almost 50 pounds (!) which was too much for what you got but it was still a good meal and a pleasant change.

I had planned to take the bus to Marazion tomorrow and then go across to St Michael's Mount as it is my rest day tomorrow.  However, I've discovered that Sunday (24th) is officially Midsummer's Day and this weekend there is a festival on here in Penzance.  There are bands all around playing in the street, street theatre, stalls of various types, parades, 3 legged pirate races, spoon and pasty races, even a fun fare.  Apparently it is the modern day version of a traditional Cornish pagan midsummer festival.  So, given the choice of pagan festival and Benedictine monastery, I'm sticking in Penzance for the festival.  I can always visit Mont Saint-Michel in Brittany some day.