Distance walked: 22km, Time taken: 7 hours (excluding lunch & sightseeing)
Ascents: 538m, Descents: 481m
Today my walking holiday started in earnest. Unfortunately, it didn’t start with a good night’s sleep. My legs had stopped aching but I still woke in the middle of the night. I couldn’t get back to sleep as a guest in a neighbouring room was snoring loudly enough to wake the dead - or at least loud enough to keep me awake while wishing he was dead.
After an early breakfast (there was no point staying in bed later than necessary) I caught a taxi to the very start of the walk at Sedbury Cliffs. Chepstow is actually a few miles along the route. My taxi driver had often taken walkers out to the start so we had a good chat about the route. He’s never done it and has no interest in trying. From his shape, it is clear that walking is not his idea of a fun thing to do.
The first section was superb. It was along the top of the dyke itself through beautiful countryside. I startled a pheasant, who returned the favour. They make a lot of noise. The second section was very dull as it was through the outskirts of Chepstow. Just tramping along footpaths past suburban houses. I suspect going out to the very start is strictly for the pedantic, but on the whole I’m pleased I bothered. The weather has also been superb. Mid to high teens and clear, blue skies without a cloud in sight.
Once past Chepstow the countryside was pretty again. I didn’t see any walkers then, but plenty of people out walking their dogs. One red setter adopted me because I was willing to throw a stick for her, when her human had gotten bored with the game and had stopped playing. I gave her back and continued on my way after a few minutes, much to her disappointment.
Today’s walk was supposed to be only 9 miles (14.5 km) but I wanted to visit Tintern Abbey which, according to my guide book was only 1 mile off the route, which proved to be slightly optimistic. What with starting at Sedbury Cliffs (adding an extra 2 miles) and the Tintern detour I ended up covering 22km today which is closer to 14.5 miles. A good bit further than was probably wise for a first day out. I hadn’t done any long walks for practice before this holiday. I’d just exercised in the gym. Gym fitness is useful but it isn’t the same as walking. My feet will probably forgive me - in a few years.
Still I’m pleased I did the Tintern detour as it is fabulous. The main church is as spectacular as all the photos, but the whole abbey complex is huge. I spent nearly an hour wandering about it (not included in the distance or time totals), which wasn’t really long enough.
I avoided all the tourist trap places for lunch near the abbey, instead stopping at the Rose and Crown in Tintern village. Very much a pub for the locals, although they had a sign up saying “muddy dogs and walkers welcome (mud optional)”. Again, the friendly landlady let me sample the ales on offer before I selected a pint of the Rev James, which again was malty and nutty. Lunch was a wild boar burger with chips. Based on the (not very strong) taste, I suspect the boar was really more accurately described as a bit flighty.
After lunch I had the option of two routes - the high route following the dyke across a common and a low one following the banks of the river Wye. The high route was described as being scenic but a little tricky to navigate. It would also require me to regain all the elevation I’d lost. It will come as no surprise that I opted to the low route. Which was plenty scenic, only marred by the dulcet tones of some idiot hooning around (and around and around) a paddock in his landrover. Why?
Tonight’s B&B is at someone’s private house. They just rent out one of the bedrooms. I’m the only person staying here which is a shame. I prefer walking alone, but like to catch up with other walkers in the evenings. However, I’m doing this walk in shorter segments than the standard route (which is typically 30km days) so I might be out of luck.
For dinner my hosts drove me to the local pub, The George, about 2km away (no more walking for me today) in St Briavels. Not as friendly a place as the Rose & Crown but far busier - which probably explains it. They weren’t unfriendly, just not as inclined to chat. I had a pint of the Bishop’s Tipple which was a bit too hoppy for my taste - I wasn’t given the option of sampling before buying here. For food I had the homemade pie of the day - pork shoulder with onions and black pepper. The pork was overcooked and dry. I’ve seen an awful lot of sheep but there is a surprising lack of lamb on the local menus.
Fingers crossed for a good night’s sleep tonight. I need it.
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