Day 9 - Tsumago to Kiso-Fukushima

Distance Walked - 22km (today was supposed to be our long day of 24km)

Today was our best day yet.  Warm and sunny and the scenery was spectacular.  We started later than made Cathy comfortable - 8:30am.  However, we didn't have to reach our destination, Nojiri, until 5:30pm so we had plenty of time.  Doug carried the camera too, so Paula didn't get too far behind.

Today's walk wound up through a river valley and over several passes.  We walked mainly through forests and along mountain paths.  It all looked like something out of a brochure.  Still didn't see any bears.  Must stop ringing the bells.

Our first section was to a post town called Nagiso.  Here we stopped for coffee and lunch supplies.  Those who didn't want to walk the whole way could atch a train to our destination from here.  Nola & John (73) had been considering it but decided to walked the whole way instead.  We visited what is now a spectacular footbridge over the Kiso River (it was originally used for logging trains).   We got the chance to watch a foursome play the local version of golf here - it is a cross between golf and croquet.  It looks like a lot of fun and doesn't take up nearly as much space as a regular golf course.

We then set off for the main route up through the mountains.  We stopped for a snack at 1pm and lunch at 2pm.  I was really struggling by then.  I'd bought chees, beef jerky, rice crackers and jelly with mandarine segments.  Not enough carbs to replenish my glycogen stores I suspect but you just can't get bread here.

After lunch we did a final push to the post town of Nojiri.  This required a long, brutal ascent of over 200m before a final drop into the town.  We got here about 4:45pm, bought welcome snacks and then caught a train to Kiso-Fukushima for the night.  Nojiri appears to be a commuter town.  There are a few shops and no inns.

Our inn here is the plushest we've stayed in.  I have a huge, 10 tatami mat room with its own ensuite bathroom and toilet.  There is also a proper onsen bath on the top floor.  There has been an inn here for hundreds of years but this is clearly a modern building.  I'm getting the hang of the whole sitting on the floor, slippers on / slippers off thing but I'm looking forward to sleeping in my own bed!

I had a quick shower in my room and then did some much needed laundry before heading down to dinner in my yakuta.  Dinner included the usual whole trout but also some beef (?) and shredded veg that was individually cooked/steamed over a hot stone.  After the first set of dishes, out came soba noddles with a dipping sauce.  Then came eggplant with miso and sesame seeds.  Then rice (I was the only one who ate this - see previous note about gylcogen stores) then finally some fresh fruit for dessert.

Everyone else tottered off to bed but I went to the onsen for a good long soak to rest my weary legs.  I had the place to myself.  Lovely.  The water wasn't as hot as last time but I preferred it as I didn't need to worry about passing out.

Tomorrow's inn is giving us the choice of horse or fish sashimi.  I opted for the fish but a few people have picked horse - raw (ugh!).  We also were given the choice of a Western breakfast or a Japanese one.  I would have preferred the Japanese one as they don't do Western food well as a rule but the majority vote was for Western, so that is what we will all get.  I'm really looking forward to porridge, fruit, yoghurt and fresh vegetables.