Day 33 - Parco delle Chiese Rupestri Loop

# Campari & Soda: 0, # Gelati: 0

Actual Distance Walked: 11.3km, Planned Distance: 11.1km
Actual Time Taken: 3h 36m, Estimated Time: 3h 36m

Today was the first day of my first hike.  It was (most of) a loop from Matera through the national park of rock churches.  Normally it would start and end in Matera, but the last bit of the path back to Matera has been closed due to rock falls, so we were collected from a visitor's centre in the park.  I say we because I met a couple of New Zealand (whose names I have promptly forgotten) who are doing the same hiking holiday.  They are staying in a different hotel which is why I hadn't met them before.

The weather today was supposed to be improving but we had wind and persistent light rain all morning, except for when we had heavy rain - just for variety.  For route guidance we've been given a printed booklet of instructions plus there is an app you can download to your phone.  Juggling these two things so I could find my way without either of them getting too wet was not fun.

The scenery in the park was fantastic.  It is clear that this part of Italy has been occupied for a very long time. Apparently there are still traces of Neolithic villages that can be seen.  I didn't see them but I did see caves - natural and man-made, houses and, of course, churches.  The views back to Matera were spectacular too.  On a pleasant day it would have been a lovely hike.  However, on a pleasant day, it would have been annoying that the pick up was for so early in the day (1:30pm).  It would make much more sense if they dropped you off at the "end" point and let you do the route in reverse.  That way, you could take your time exploring.  

Given it wasn't a pleasant day, I wasn't tempted to explore and just marched along.  I got to the pick up point with 30 minutes to spare.  The visitor's centre was, of course, closed.  Fortunately, it was a big building so I could wait in the lee of the building so I was out of the wind.  I was warm enough when I was walking, but I was soaking wet by the end, and got very cold when I stopped moving.  The driver showed up after about 15 minutes so I got to wait in his car for the other two (Ken maybe? + spouse).

Once back in Matera were scurried back to our respective hotels to have a hot shower and put on dry clothes.  My clothes were so muddy I just put them on the floor of the shower and trampled them underfoot as I washed.  I've stuffed the best part of an entire roll of toilet paper into my boots.  Hopefully, they will be dry by tomorrow.  

Once I was warm and dry I headed out to the Museo Laboratorio della Civilità Contadina.  It was very interesting although most of the displays seemed to be from the early 1900s rather than earlier times, including the little old man who sold the tickets.  I had planned on more sightseeing after visiting this museum but I couldn't bring myself to do it.  The last 4 days have been cold, wet and windy.  While the rain had stopped by mid-afternoon, the weather was still unpleasant.  I wimped out and just went back to my hotel room, where I have the heating going full blast in an attempt to dry my boots before tomorrow.

At 7:30pm I headed out to dinner at the Osteria Pico which is the third and final recommendation from the hotel receptionist.  When I arrived the place was deserted except for a tour group of Germans.  Within 10 minutes the tourist hordes had descended and the place was almost entirely full.  We tourists just don't eat at a civilised hour (by Italian standards).  For my antipasto I chose the only thing I didn't recognise from the menu.  It turned out to be a bread-based salad made with stale bread, tomatoes, cucumber, red onions, olive oil and lots of oregano.  For my primi I had a "soup" of broad beans and chicory topped with more olive oil and paprika, which is a speciality of the region.  I have soup in quotes because it was more like mash.  For dessert I had a ricotta mashed up with bits of sponge cake, flavoured with strega liqueur and sour cherries.  All peasant dishes but with the best ingredients and beautifully presented.  Another find.

Just to tease, as I was going home, I noticed that the skies have finally cleared, with only a few whispy clouds to be seen.  Fingers crossed it stays that way for tomorrow.  I'm so tired of being cold and wet.