Espresso Freddo: 2
I've decided to keep track of the number of espresso freddos I drink every day instead of pastries I eat. I've become addicted to these drinks. I'll have to buy the appropriate frothing tool when I get back to Melbourne. They are just the thing for a hot summer day.
Today started disgustingly early as we had a guided tour of the Acropolis, Parthenon and Agora booked starting at 8am. Our hotel doesn't provide breakfast so we headed out to the starting point at 7am (!) and had breakfast at a nearby cafe (Greek yoghurt with honey, granola & banana with an espresso freddo - Good). It was fascinating walking the streets of the centre of Athens that had been heaving with tourists yesterday but were deserted in the pre-dawn (!) hours.
The tour started early in an attempt to beat the heat and the crowds but failed on both counts. Everyone else had the same bright idea so the Acropolis was insanely crowded. Being surrounded by stone, on a hill with absolutely no shade, in 30+ degree heat meant we melted.
On the plus side, our guide Hermes, was excellent. He had a degree in political science and the history of the Balkans. He then had to do a 3 year course on Greek history before he could become a registered tour guide. He was knowledeable with an entertaining undercurrent of world-weary sarcasm.
I have to admit, while I'm glad I visited the Acropolis and can say I've seen the Parthenon, I wouldn't go back. The Agora was much more interesting. Fewer crowds and more to see. I'd go back there. The tour only showed us a few highlights of the Agora. We could have spent all day there but we were too tired. Next time I visit Athens I'll go back.
Instead, we had lunch at one of the many restaurants lining the street outside. Our guide said the food there would be OK, just overpriced. It was still cheaper than it would have been in Melbourne. I had the Greek equivalent of a panzanella salad - tomatoes, stale bread and olive oil. This version also had capers which was nice touch. The tomatoes were standard supermarket ones so not a lot of taste so it was just Average. We also shared a plate of olives, cheese, breadsticks & salami - all perfectly decent.
We then tottered off to the Acropolis Museum. We first fortified outselves with another espresso freddo and cake in the rooftop cafe. In my case, "orange pie" which is an orange & semolina cake which was very Good. Tasty without being sickly sweet.
We then wandered around the museum. The highlight of this museum is a floor which is laid out to match the dimensions of the Parthenon. They have the actual pieces from the frieze on display (where they have them) and plaster casts of the bits in the British Museum (the majority of it). They are still rather salty about Lord Elgin and the refusal by the British to return the pieces he looted.
After all this culture we headed back to our hotel for a wash and a rest. I'm definitely managing to get my step count in.
For dinner we just headed out to a small street cafe around the corner. It has about a dozen tables outside and an open kitchen/grill. The choices for wine here were house white, rose or red. I tried to order some rose wine but the waiter warned me it was sweet. Next I tried to order red wine but they were out of it, so we settled for half of litre of white. You could drink it.
For food we started with saganaki which was Good. We then shared something described on the English menu as Pork Pan - pork bites with herbs and lemon. This was Good - tender pork in a tasty sauce. We also had Spezofai - sausages in tomato, feta and onion sauce. This was Disappointing as it wasn't made with sausage - not even cheap sausage - but with chopped up hotdogs. Ugh.
Back at the hotel now, wondering how to fit everything back into my suitcase.
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