Day 19 - Porthleven

Beer drunk: 2 pints, Distance walked: 22km, Time taken: 6h 26m (5h 37m walking)

I'd been a bit concerned about today's walk as it was, officially, the longest but it turned out to be mostly easy going.  The path was generally firm underfoot and there were only a few drops down into valleys/coves and then up the other side.

I did do one more descent into a cove than was officially necessary.  I was scrambling across a pebbled beach when about half way along it I realised that this wouldn't be passable at high tide so it couldn't be right.  However, the tide was out and I could see a path leading up out of the cove at the other end so I kept on.  Turns out the official path used to run along the cliff above the beach but had fallen down.  There is a diversion inland but the old signs are still there.  I'd followed them to the beach and since the path along it (and matching signs) have vanished had assumed along the beach was the way I was meant to go.  I wonder how obvious the diversion signs were.  I certainly never noticed them.

The weather was mostly pleasant for walking but it was drizzling when I set off.  It cleared after about an hour to a sunny day.  The annoying bit of this was it was raining when I was closest to St Michael's Mount.  It is spectacular but I have no good photos of it.  I was some distance away before it was fine enough to fish out my camera and take pictures.  Google Images will have to come to my rescue.

I met quite a few hikers and dog walkers today as the weather was good.  I also saw yet another jogger.  He was coming downhill into a valley towards me and then, without slowing down or breaking stride, jogged up the other side.  He was wearing a lifeguard t-shirt so I guess he was in training.  He can rescue me any time.

I just had a sandwich and some fruit for lunch on the way but stopped for a pint when I reached Porthleven before heading to the B&B.  Fortunately I didn't linger too long over it.  When I arrived it turns out there were another pair of walkers due any moment.   However, there are only 2 bedrooms for rent and as the first to arrive I got to choose.  The options were one room with a double bed + bunk beds (and an ensuite shower) and the other with a double bed and an ensuite bath.  There is no prize for guessing which one I chose.  The other pair of hikers turned up only 15 minutes after me.  They are taking their revenge by watching TV in the neighbouring room rather loudly.

There are several pleasant sounding restaurants here in Porthleven but it being a Sunday they are all shut so the only choice for dinner was one of 3 pubs.  On the advice of my landlady I went to the Ship Inn which prides itself on being an old smugglers inn and also a chip-free zone.  It says it is an 18th century pub but I would have thought from the shape and size (and low ceilings) that it was a good bit older than that.  The building certainly seems to be.

I had the fish pie which came with salad.  I think these were the first pieces of lettuce that have passed my lips since arriving on these shores.  I can't imagine why I haven't thought to order this sort of pie before.  It was topped with so much (tasty) mash and a white sauce so full of cheese I had to take their word for it there was fish in it.  The fish dish for non-fish eaters.  I had the apple pie with caramel sauce and clotted cream for dessert.

While I was there a couple came in and ordered two glasses of house white wine.  Why order wine at a pub that prides itself on its good ale (and doesn't have much in the way of a wine list) is a mystery to me.  They also ordered meals.  The man wanted the sirloin steak.  However, the waiter came over to tell him that the sirloin was "off" and would the rump steak be an acceptable substitute.  It wasn't and so they demanded their money back and left.  I can't understand being so precious about the cut of meat.  I can see preferring one to another but to refuse to eat the alternative seems a little too particular.  In any case, if you are that fussy why are you eating in a pub in the first place?