Day 22 - Helford

Beer drunk: 1 pint, Distance walked: 17km (estimate), Time taken: 6h 3m (5h 18m walking (estimate))

Only estimates today as the batteries in the GPS died just before the end.  Dull walking today.  It was foggy all day not that it turned out that it mattered.  A good chunk of the walk was inland as the coast is private property.  That meant it was down lanes and across fields which gets boring fairly rapidly.  The bits that were along the coast were through fairly dense woodland so there wouldn't have been any view to see even if the fog had lifted.  It was also muddy underfoot but not as bad as yesterday.  I didn't fall once.

I walked today with Trevor and an English couple whose names I didn't catch.  It was pleasant walking with others along this stretch as the conversation made up for the dullness of the scenery.  The only fun bit today was crossing the Gillan creek.  At low tide you can wade across but we got there as the tide was coming in so this wasn't an option.  Instead, you raise a red flag and, eventually, the ferryman on the other side notices and comes in a tinny to fetch you over for the princely sum of 3 pounds each.

I only went as far as this side of the Helford River today.  Once there I phoned my B&B in Coverack and they came and fetched me back.  It took 30 minutes to drive the distance we spent all day walking. A very lowering experience.  The others crossed the Helford and then phoned their B&B's and were fetched to a town inland.  There are no B&Bs around Helford itself unfortunately.

Crossing the Helford River involves much the same process as crossing the Gillan creek did except the flag is yellow and the boat (slightly) larger.  I'll find out tomorrow how much is the fare.  I get dropped off at the ferry landing tomorrow morning.

Lunch was the usual - apple and chocolate bar but I had afternoon tea at a teashop in Helford while I was waiting for my lift.  This was a chocolate brownie, with clotted cream as the owner felt that it was necessary for walkers, plus a pot of tea.  I'm almost beginning to like tea.

I had dinner at the Paris Hotel here in Coverack.  In spite of the name it is the more downmarket of the two pubs here.  The other, the Bay Hotel, felt a bit too grand for me tonight.  I've washed off all the mud but I still didn't feel up to fine dining.  I'd had a pint in the Paris Hotel last night with Trevor and the English couple and found it welcoming, if a bit scruffy, or perhaps because of it.  Full of locals (and their dogs) as well as walkers.  I had - you can guess - the steak and chips.   I'll eat somewhere a little fancier tomorrow night in Falmouth.

One more day of walking and then back to the salt mines.