# Pasteis de Nata: 0, Distance Walked: 12km (+ 4km), # Floors Climbed: 60
Today's walk is officially to Almograve, but the extra 4km is because I'm not staying there. I've been relegated to a hotel in Longueira, which is a further 2km inland. The only (open) restaurant here is another 1km further in again. I'm a little annoyed about this as all the other Vicentina Travel hikers are staying in Almograve proper. I booked months in advance.
Today we had the option of a 3km detour inland from Milfontes to get to a bridge across the Mira river or to take the ferry. I took the ferry. I expect most people do.
It was busy taking another group of hikers across the river when I arrived at the jetty so I spent a few minutes petting a cat (or two).
I didn't see as many people on the trail today. I imagine there were just as many as yesterday but it was a short day so I expect many people didn't feel the need to rush off early. Also, the limited capacity of the ferry (about 10 people) meant we were a lot more spread out.
Most of the walking was along the cliff edge with, once again, spectacular views - at least some of the time. You will see from the map I clearly missed a turn off early on. That is because a good bit of the path went through narrow paths through thick scrub so it wasn't always possible to see the signs. It was also not always possible to walk upright. I have my hiking poles strapped to my pack and got them caught more than once.
I got to Almograve about 1pm and stopped for lunch. Most of the other hikers stopped in the cafe but I decided I didn't want something with chips so I went to the restaurant. It was full of middle-aged men who either couldn't or didn't want to go home for lunch. I had the pork suprise/secret which was a suprise as it was pork ribs (Good) but they came with not just chips, but also rice and a fried egg. Haven't they heard of fruit and vegetables besides potatoes and olives?
I then sauntered inland to my hotel. On the way I passed a farmer who stopped me to chat. He only spoke Portuguese and a little Italian but we managed. He was very friendly. I've found most of the people here are very friendly and willing to chat.
My hotel here is actually a renovated farm house. My room has whitewashed stone walls and a sloping ceiling with big wooden beams. The bathroom however is tiny. I had to be careful turning around in the shower, otherwise I would bump the tap and change the temperature. I'm not sure how a person with a more substantial build than me could even get into the shower.
One thing I do like about this village is this rebel. From what I've seen 90% of houses in this part of Portugal are white with blue trim while the other 10% have cream trim. And then there is this kindred spirit.
After resting up I ambled up the street to the only open restaurant. It specialises in fish and seafood but had a few meat dishes for the rest of us. I had the porco segreto again. This time it was pan-fried fillets (tasty Goodness) which just came with chips. For dessert I had torta claras which looked like a meringue rolled up around a filling. However, the egg white didn't seem to have been cooked. Instead, it had been thickened with gelatine or something like that and had the consistency of marshmallow. The filling didn't taste of anything much other than cinnamon. It was all very sweet and not very nice. I'd actually rate it Bad.
Tomorrow is going to be a long day. The official route is 20km but I have an extra 2km to get back to Almograve. On the plus side I have plenty of time. There is a village around the 10km mark where I'll stop for a lunch that doesn't include chips! For dinner I'm planning on going to the local pizzeria. It is run by an Italian. I've tried. I really have. But I just don't much like traditional portuguese food (except their pastries).
pork, pork and more pork!
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