Day 14 - Almograve to Zambujeira do Mar

# Pasteis de Nata: 1, Distance Walked: 22.5km (+2km), # Floors Climbed: 80

Today was the hardest day so far of this hike.  It was only meant to be 20km but the guide book lied.  The official route was actually 23km.  The last part into Zambujeira was mostly along a road but turned off to go along the foreshore just before reaching the town outskirts.  I missed this turnoff and so saved about 1/2km.  However, I had an extra 2km to walk from my hotel into Almograve.

I discovered at breakfast this morning that I was the only Vicentina Travel customer that had been relegated to the hotel inland, rather than the one in Almograve proper.  I'm still rather peeved.

Breakfast this morning turned out to be a bit awkward.  There were just two large tables in the breakfast room.  One had a group of German tourists sat at it while the other had a group of American men.  I chose to sit with the Americans since I could talk to them.  There was no place setting on the table but I assumed plates and cutlery would be on the buffet.  However, it turns out a place setting had been set for me on the table with the Germans.  I had to go and collect it all.  Oops.  I'm assuming they won't take offence because I elected to sit with other English speakers. 

I walked back into Almograve along the backroads.  Some of the Americans planned to get a lift from our landlady.  I then took the official route from there.  This took me north and the down the western side of town.  Some of the Americans planned to walk directly to the coast.  They missed out on the scenic tour which included passing the local sewerage plant.  Perhaps being a purist wasn't such a good idea.

The morning walk, while long, was lovely with spectacular scenery as always.  This was a very secluded bay, once you were safely in it, but I'm not sure I'd want to try to moor there in heavy seas.

The terrain has been a mix of dirt paths (easy to walk on) and loose sand.  I've discovered the best way to walk on sand.  You don't walk, rolling from heel to toe, so much as stomp.  That is, pick your whole foot up and then stomp it back down it front of you.  It isn't any easier but you get less sand inside your boots.

I got to a village with a cafe at around the 10km mark.  About 40 hikers had descended on it en masse for food, leaving the staff rather frazzled.  They made good money from us though.  I had an omelette with mushrooms with came with a side salad and, of course, chips.  I got halfway through my chips when I came across a deep fried prawn tail.  Now, I expect them to re-use their oil for deep frying and it isn't as if I have a shellfish allergy but it still rather put me off.  I also had a pastel de nata there that was Bad.  The pastry wasn't properly cooked so it had a soggy bottom.

After lunch the weather changed with dark clouds coming in from the sea.  Five minutes after taking this photo I couldn't see the rocks, or indeed the sea, any more.  I could hear the ocean but all I saw was cloud.  I was worried about it raining but the cloud just came over the land so we were walking in light cloud.  It didn't rain or even get appreciably colder, just misty.  It was very strange.

Towards the end of the afternoon I rounded yet another headland and the sky and sea cleared.  Looking back I could still see the dark clouds but there were none where I was.  A very localised odd climate effect.

I eventually staggered into town here 8 hours after I'd left my hotel this morning.  I was still one of the earliest hikers to check into my hotel if the pile of luggage in the lobby was any guide.

 

I love the hotel here.  I have a balcony that I can actually go out on.  And it has a clothes line!  This town is a seaside resort and I think the clothes line is for drying your bathing suit and beach towel.  I just did my regular laundry and hung it out to dry.  I even leant over the railing a pinched a couple of pegs from my neighbour.  I don't know anyone here.  Who cares if they see my knickers drying.

I went to a local pizzeria for dinner tonight.  I had a pizza with proscuitto (more pork), rocket and cherry tomatoes (vegetables!) and tiramisu for dessert (of course).  All of it was quite Good and very comforting to eat.