# Pasteis de Nata: 2, Distance Walked: 19.5km, # Floors Climbed: 120
Today's blog is mainly about food. As you can see from the map a lot of the trail today actually went inland so there wasn't much in the way of scenery to admire.
As I was heading out to breakfast this morning I ran into the very friendly housekeeper at the hotel. She'd shown me to my room yesterday. I asked her about where I could get lunch. She told me of course they provide packed lunches. She then rushed off and made me some. She provided me with 2 sandwiches and 3 pieces of fruit (an apple, a pear and an orange) but was concerned that wouldn't be enough. Yesterday's receptionist was clueless.
My trip notes had said there was nowhere to buy food on the route but they were wrong too. At about the 9km mark the Historical and Fisherman's trails split. There is a B&B there (why I do not know as it is in the middle of nowhere). They clearly realised they have a lot of hikers going past their front door and have opened a cafe. I stopped for a coffee and some pastries. Practically all the tables were occupied even though it is still shoulder season.
I made it to Carrapateira Beach at about 2 in the afternoon which was perfect timing. At low tide you can walk across the beach and into town. Otherwise you have to trek along the road, which is both longer and dull.
This is the beach which was lovely and stretched for miles. I took off my boots and socks and wandered along the shoreline. The Atlantic is cold! I then sat on the beach for a bit watching some tourists get surfing lessons. I realise I don't want a villa in Tuscany. I want one at a beach -- on the Mediterranean -- the Atlantic is too cold.
One thing I like about European beaches is that women of all ages and sizes are happily wearing bikinis. Or, in the case of one granny who didn't want tan lines, bikini bottoms. Fortunately, European men seem to happily prefer board shorts to budgie smugglers. My favourite beach goer was a young woman who threw herself down in the warm sand and wriggled around like a happy dog. I suspect she was high on something but it was clearly making her happy.
I then had to figure out how to get rid of all the sand off my sandy, wet feet and get my boots back on before ambling the last 2km into town. This beach goes back a loooong way.
When I got into town I stopped at a bar and had a big glass of sangria. At a neighbouring table was a German man I've been seeing on and off over the past few days. He always is staying at the same hotel so is clearly being supported by the same local company. He was chatting with an American man, who is also walking this trail solo. I ended up joining them and we had a pleasant chat. Florian (the German) has just retired and is trying to figure out what he wants to do with his life. The American (whose name I forget) is contemplating retirement. Florian and I were able to provide him with plenty of encouragement to just do it.
We also talked about the types of holidays we enjoy and the other hikes we've done. All three of us agreed that the way we are doing it is the best. When I mentioned this Canadian couple who are much more hardcore the American immediately said "You mean Bob & Tammy?" He'd been swept up by them too.
My hotel here has strong hippy surfer vibes but check-in went smoothly and without confusion. Plus they have a cat. It isn't a hotel cat though. When I went to pat it, I woke it up and it was annoyed and hissed and took a swipe at me. Doesn't it know that it is supposed to provide tourists with some cat therapy?
The hotel realises there are few options for buying food here in town and none on the route. They do the sensible thing and say you can make yourself a packed lunch using things from the breakfast buffet for a very reasonable 3 euro fee. I guess they got tired of people sneaking food out.
For dinner I tottered into the centre of town (my legs are not appreciating all this walking on sand). I had 3 options - a restaurant serving traditional dishes (pass), a bar serving meals all of which come with a side of french fries (pass) and a hippy place with a lot of vegan options, including vegan tiramisu (why?!).
I went to the hippy place. They offer pizza but as most of the staff seemed North African and there didn't seem to be space in their tiny kitchen for a proper pizza oven I didn't chance it. Instead I ordered what I thought was grilled chicken with rice and salad. Why I thought that I'm not entirely sure. I know the Portuguese word for grilled and the word on the menu was nothing like it. That is because it was actually a chicken curry. It was a pleasant tasty mild curry with a side dish of a lethal chili paste to add to taste. For dessert I risked the baked cheesecake again. It wasn't made with goat's cheese so didn't have that strong goaty flavour. Sadly it didn't have much flavour at all. Overall a Decent meal.
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