# Pasteis de Nata: 1, Distance Walked: 19.2km (+5km), # Floors Climbed: 69
I did the short walk today following the inland Historical Trail all the way. It was, in a word, dull although my knees and ankles appreciated it. The route was on a flat plain through farm land with very few trees. In the early stages there were glimpses of mountains in the distance. In the last few kilometres you could sometime just see the sea, but mostly it was just farmland. The skies were clear with temperatures in the low 20s. OK for hiking but this part of Portugal must be unbearable in the middle of summer.
I think most hikers I've met must have done the Fisherman's Trail route as I only saw 2 other couples on the trail this morning. Fortunately, the route was well signposted as I didn't have a map for it downloaded on my phone and I didn't have the usual parade of other hikers to follow.
Before heading out this morning I breakfasted at my rather upmarket hotel. I didn't see any other hikers. It turns out one other guest was a hiker (based on conversations with her neighbours) but she had more class that to attend breakfast in her hiking boots, unlike me.
There wasn't anything so crass as a breakfast buffet. Instead, we were ushered to a table and had our food brought to us. We had a choice of what sort of coffee or tea and the option to have eggs cooked for us, in the manner of our choosing. The rest was standard. This consisted of a small bottle of orange juice, a plate of fresh fruit, a small bowl of cereal, another small bowl of yoghurt, a plate of 3 cheeses (cow, sheep & goat going by the taste) along with some ham, little pots of butter, jam & honey and a basket of very good fresh bread along with 2 croissants. I didn't order eggs and I skipped the croissants but I ate all the rest (burp).
I then staggered back (uphill) to my room to pack. This is a photo of the street with the building my room was in. My room was in the funny white lump on the roof of the building on the right. It had a sloping wall on the far side with floor to ceiling windows. I have no idea what the original building was for.
I reached the town of Rogil at around 11:30am. This is the point where the Historical and Fisherman's Trails met. This was the first lunch stop I've reached where there was no trouble getting food. There were 3 supermarkets, 4 cafes and a bakery. All were open. However, I was still so full from all my breakfast I just had an (Absolutely Delicious) pastel de nata and an apple from one of the supermarkets and headed on out of town.
I had heard this part of Portugal had bad storms in March. There were quite few trees down near the trail but this photo shows clearly how bad they must have been. This is in the old part of Aljezur which is built on the side of a mountain. The whole house has just collapsed and slid down the hill.
I reached Aljezur at around 2pm but couldn't check into my hotel until 5pm. This is the reason for the extra 5km of walking. Aljezur is built along a river, with the historical centre on one side of the river and the new town on the other. The trail takes you on a winding route through the old town to the river bank. I idled away 1 hour having a beer at a cafe on the river bank. My hotel is on the river but in the new town so I then spent another hour ambling around the new town trying to find somewhere to have dinner. I then headed to the hotel to pretend I though check in was from 4pm but the front door was locked and reception was deserted. What kind of hotel has check in so late?! I then ambled around until I found a park to sit in and read a book until 5pm.
I don't like my hotel here. It is modern and characterless. I also had to specify what time I wanted breakfast instead of being free to come down any time they're serving. Odd. I'll be curious to see how it compares to this morning's spread.
I was concerned about what I'd get for dinner tonight. The town has 3 pizzerias. However, one makes New York style pizza with way too much topping on way too thick bases, so that one was a no. The second one appears to have gone out of business. The third turned out to be a bar with live music that also sells pizza. Not really my scene.
I decided to just give up and go to a restaurant Ricardo recommended that was just across the road from my hotel. I'm so glad I did as everything I had there was Absolutely Delicious.
Instead of the standard bread and olives to nibble on I got bread, olives, a little dish of herb & garlic butter, a little dish of some whipped cheese and a little dish of some North African/Middle Eastern eggplant thingy.
For main I had pork cheeks in red wine with mashed potato and sweet potato crisps and a balsamic glaze. Not a spoonful of rice or a single french fry in sight. It was all so tasty I used some of the bread to clean the plate. I don't know or care if that is considered uncouth here.
For dessert I had an excellent tiramisu which had all the proportions right.
I think I've discovered how to eat well in Portugal. Don't bother with traditional food. Go to the hipster places. This place was achingly hip but all that food along with a glass of wine and one of mineral water only cost me 33 euros. I was not expected to tip.
No comments:
Post a Comment